Lady Grey

Lady Grey sits 54km east of Aliwal North on the R58, tucked into a valley at the foot of the Witteberg range in the Joe Gqabi District. The town was established in 1857 on the farm Waaihoek, founded by the Dutch Reformed Church and named after the wife of Cape Governor Sir George Grey. It became a municipality in 1893. The railway from Aliwal North, completed in 1905, gave it a brief commercial life as a trading centre. That pace never really left.

The mountains are the thing here. The Witteberg range rises steeply to the south and east, and the rivers running off them carry wild trout and yellowfish. The area draws fly fishers who know about it and don't say too much. The streams and rivers around Lady Grey are productive from spring through to mid-autumn. There are also fossil beds, San rock art sites, and sandstone formations in the surrounding hills that reward anyone willing to walk.

Each Easter, the town runs the Lady Grey Passion Play, a three-day production performed in the streets and various venues around town with over 130 speaking roles and a full choir. It draws visitors from across the country. The Lady Grey Arts Academy has been producing graduates in drama, dance, and music for years, which partly explains why a disproportionate number of artists and musicians have settled here.

The streets are mostly gravel, shaded by trees, and lined with old buildings, some restored, some not. There's a hotel, a couple of guesthouses, a few small shops and a pub. The pace is slow. The skies at night are extraordinary. Lady Grey doesn't advertise itself much, and that's worked in its favour.