Franschhoek

The Huguenots arrived in 1688, Protestant refugees fleeing France after Louis XIV revoked the Edict of Nantes. The Dutch East India Company granted them land in this valley, and they named their farms after the regions they had left — La Motte, Cabriere, La Cotte, Provence. The name Franschhoek means French Corner. The Huguenot Monument at the end of the main street commemorates them. Cape Dutch architecture throughout the village reflects restrictions on development that have preserved its 18th-century character.

Over 25 major wine estates surround the town, some of the most respected names in South African wine. The valley is particularly known for cap classique, the local method for sparkling wine pioneered at Haute Cabriere. Wine tasting here is not the social media version of wine tasting elsewhere in the Winelands. The estates are working vineyards with proper cellars, and the topography — mountains on three sides, valley floor at 400 metres altitude — produces wines with genuine complexity.

The restaurant scene is exceptional by any measure. Several Franschhoek restaurants consistently rank in the top ten in the country. This is not accidental. The chefs here have access to local produce, good wine, and an audience that comes specifically to eat well. The main street is compact enough to walk in an afternoon between meals.

It fills up badly on weekends from October to April. The wine tram is full, parking is a problem, and the main street moves slowly. Come on a Tuesday in June. The restaurants are still open, the estates are quieter, and you get something closer to what the place actually is.