Port Alfred

Port Alfred sits almost exactly halfway between Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) and East London on the R72, at the mouth of the Kowie River in Ndlambe Local Municipality, Sarah Baartman District. The town has roots going back to 1820, when British settlers arrived on both banks of the Kowie, calling their respective settlements Port Kowie and Port Frances. In 1860, when Queen Victoria's son Prince Alfred visited, the two were merged and renamed in his honour. South Africa's first man-made harbour opened here in 1841, a stone-lined channel between the sea and the river. The town has been drawing visitors ever since.

The Kowie River is the centre of activity. It's tidal for about 22km inland, which means boat trips, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, and fishing all operate from the marina and the town's riverbank. The Kowie River Canoe Trail heads 21km upstream to the Water Meeting Nature Reserve, a two-day route that moves between forest and floodplain and gives you a serious look at the indigenous bush and birdlife of the valley. Kelly's Beach is the main surf beach, consistent and well-regarded, while Kids Beach and Warner Beach offer calmer water for families.

The marina is the modern centrepiece of town, with restaurants, a craft beer operation (Wharf Street Brew Pub), live music venues, an antique shop, and a weekend market. The Royal Port Alfred Golf Course has been operating for over a century and remains one of the more scenic courses in the Eastern Cape. The Kap River Nature Reserve to the north has recorded over 260 bird species.

Port Alfred has more infrastructure than most small towns on this coastline, including a hospital, a university satellite campus, private schools, and a functioning commercial centre. It's a proper town with real amenities, not just a holiday strip. The population is approaching 30,000. It gets busy in December and at Easter, but outside those windows it's quiet and manageable.